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Gold Coins (144 Pc) -Plastic Toy Coins for Pirate Parties!
Price : $9.95 $2.75
Features
: - play coins
- plastic, gold colored
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plastic gold color kids coins, great for pirate parties
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Learning Resources Pretend and Play Calculator Cash Register
Price : $39.99 $27.70
Features
: - Winner of 23 awards for excellence
- Working solar powered cash register
- Perfect addition to any pretend store
- Includes life-size play money
- Booklet of suggested activities
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Learning Resources Teaching Cash Register
Price : $54.99 $32.00
Features
: - Rewards transactions with lights, sounds and voice messages
- Holds actual-size money and includes play coins and bills, coupon and credit card
- Features a built-in scanner, scale and coin slot
- Helps children practice coin recognition, addition, subtraction and place value with 4 engaging games
- Prolongs battery life with automatic shut-off feature
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Melissa & Doug Play Money Set
Price : $19.99 $11.65
Features
: - Conveniently stores in wooden box
- Realistic play money
- Learn money counting
- Recommended Age Range 3 Years and up
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- Conveniently stores in wooden box
- Realistic play money
- Learn money counting
- Recommended Age Range 3 Years and up
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That's a loot of money! Conveniently packaged set has dozens of pretend bills from $1 to $100 and hundreds of play coins, all securely stored in a wooden cash drawer with sliding lid. - Product Measures: 0.0 IN x 0.0 IN x 0.0 IN
- Recommended Ages: 0 - 0 years
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Assorted Pirate Mini Gems
Price : $2.59
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Find your Own Buried Treasure with Pirate Jewels! Fill your goody bags and treasure chests with pirate favors and toys like the pirate treasure gems. The treasure jewels are also ideal for use as stage props and party decorations. 48 mini pirate treasure gems per package. Gems are approximately 1/2" long and 3/4" wide. Assorted color jewels. Made of plastic. The treasure gems are ideal for any treasure hunting event. We have the pirate party supplies that you need to make your pirate party a hit, plus tons of stunning pirate party favors and decorations. Part of Favors, Toys, Gifts > Play Money
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Questions & Answers
Question : Audiopipe amplifier stuck in protection mode?
I finally finished paying off my Audiopipe 1200 W amp, capacitor, wire kit, and my 12" sub box. First thing I did was go over to my friends house so he and his dad could help me install it. After installing everything except the capacitor (I didn't have another ground wire, decided to install it later) the subs worked fine along with the amp. So I drove my car home and it worked the whole way. The next morning, I took my car to work and the whole way they did not work. I figured my battery wasn't supplying enough power to my amp so I figured I needed to install my cap right away to get it to work. During my lunch break, I took my car to the bank to make a withdraw. The whole way they weren't working until I was in the express lane. Halfway through my transaction, they kicked in and were working. After work, of course, i left for home and they weren't working. The rest of that day (Saturday) I worked on installing my Amp and fixing the things we went wrong with during the installation. Once my cap was powered up and ready to roll, the amp still hadn't worked. I noticed that the protection button stays a constant red, but the amp still powers on and my REM cord still lights up and starts the fan. It looks and sounds fine from my judgement other than the red protection button. So all day today (Sunday) I tried different troubleshooting ideas (changing the powercord to a smaller size being that i used a 1600 w installation kit for a 1200 w amp, triple checking the wiring, stripping the amp down to orig. state and adding the cords one by one, letting it sit for hours in case it's overheated, switched around the ground, and so on.) Note that the amp stopped working preceding the capacitor installation, so they shouldn't be linked. Whoever takes the time to read this and put some effort into solving the problem, I would really appreciate it. I wish I would have bought it from an actual store but was stupid and got it at the local pawn shop, so I'm sure he wouldn't replace it if I told him it wasn't working. Everything he sold me was brand-new in working condition with warranties attached, so he claimed. Hopefully the least he could do is either repair it or help me fix it in case it is set up wrong. Anyways, back to the question, please give me any troubleshooting ideas or ask any questions in case I haven't said enough. I would really appreciate it... because I hope I didn't waste all of the money I've earned from working 2 jobs this summer on shit. Thanks.
Answer:
I can tell from reading that your not experienced at installing. So i'm going to run thru some basics to get you started.First, your power wire can be as large as you want it to be. Making it smaller only increases resistance on the line, possibly affecting voltage if it's too small. Your ground wire should be equal to or greater than your power wire. The chassis should be polished down where you have installed your ground wire, don't be afraid to use more than one screw to hold it in place. 9 times out of 10 in a car stereo complication scenario it revolves around the ground.Secondly, if you're presenting a final load (impedance) of less resistance to the amplifier than it is rated, it will trip the protection. (Example: a pair of 4 ohm subs ran parrallel will present a final load of 2 ohms, if you're amplifier is not 2 ohm stable it will trip protection.Also, keep in mind that some amplifiers need a quality signal. If you have a bad ground loop, or alternator noise that is overwhelming you could trip protection.Another good piece of advice is to ensure that your amplifier IS NOT bolted to a metal chassis. Again, you could run into several complications including overheating & looping.A gain set too high, can sometimes trip protect. ton's of potential problems, if you can narrow down or isolate your problems then we can help more. Start your troubleshooting by determining if you go directly into protect on startup, or with increased volume/power.that's about all the general help I can give you, but from hearing the ways you define issues, or refer to installations, i would recommend that you get a professionals help, it really doesn't sound like your qualified to troubleshoot this problem, but good luck if you decide to.
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Question : Bass, Drums, or new guitar amp?
Ok, I play Rhythm guitar in my band. Right now, our band (called H1N1) has two guitarists and a drummer. I've been saving up (I have $500 right now) and i'm getting a summer job and will earn at least $450. Our drummer lives in another town about 35 miles away and we don't get to practice much. I could get a drum set and we could play more often (I love playing drums, too, so that could be another persuasion...), I could get a bass w/ amp (Played bass before...easy), or get a nice Vox 50w tube amp. I need some feedback on what to get. Please do not say "save your money" because I have sooo much money already saved in the bank.I can get two of the things listed if it seems smarter. Also, if i got a drum set it'd be a cheap sound percussion 5 pc. from guitar center
Answer:
you should stick to the bass and rhythm and save more money because drum sets are expensive so get the bass with amp or the amp
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Question : Help with getting low amp reading with my solar panel array?
I had my solar panel set up for a couple months now and just started to monitor the power output. Right now I have a 90 watt harbor freight kit, and 2 80 watt mono and 2 80 watt poly panels. All are wired in parallel so it should add to about 410 watts at around 20 volts right? I know voltage drop for battery bank after charge controller. So it converts it down to 13 volts. I have an amp meter wired in series before the charge controller and at peek time I only see it reach 14 amp. 14 x 13 volts is 182 watts I am only getting out of the panels. So I cam losing almost 60% of my potential power output from the panels!!!! Why is that? I thought that the amps do not change only the voltage drop for the batteries, so my meter should read almost 20 amps. Which would be 20 x 13 volts = 260 watts output from panels. That is only around 40% of power loss. I am so confused and not happy with the results I am reading here with the amount of money I spent for all of this. Thanks for every ones time and help.
Answer:
If it were me, I'd start by trying to isolate whether it was one or more of the panels. I would disconnect each panel, in turn, and wire it directly across the ammeter. Don't worry, a short circuit will not damage the panel. My guess is that the Harbor Freight is putting out way below the advertised power. The other panels should have a power warranty on them, so would put out reasonable current.Also, being that this is winter, are your panels pointed directly at the sun? We lose 30% of our power in winter, just due to tilt that doesn't match the low inclination of the sun.
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Question : Spending too much on first guitar and amp?
Okay, so I would love to learn to play the guitar, but one problem: since I'm 16 and my parents would not like me to get a job so I can focus on school, I have a pretty tight budget. I have about $600 that I have from Christmas till now, from saving allowance, Christmas money, and cashing the money from the piggy bank that I've been filling for quite some time now. Equipment I plan to get: Fender FM 25 DSP Frontman Combo Amp $129.99Squier Affinity Series Telecaster Special $179.99& additional accessories (tuner, cable, string cleaner, capo, etc).I have calculated this (I like to plan things out before doing anything) to be around $388 from GuitarCenter, not including tax. Is this an unreasonable amount to spend? Yes, I would like to learn more than anything, but I am hesitant to spend so much. I might get a job this summer or for senior year, but at this point, I do not know for sure, and I want to make sure I have enough for college. What do you think? I'm already set that I want to start with electric. I'm afraid acoustic will discourage me, and the genres I am interested in are strictly electric. Thanks for reading my block of text.
Answer:
I would say you are buying a lot of crap, and I know, because I have bought a lot of crap in my life.I would buy - I have bought, the VOX DA5. Yes, it's only 5 watts, but it is loud enough for practice or playing with others. And, I think if it is on sale it is a bit cheaper. You might want to splurge and get the 15 watt model. Whereas the Fender FM is crap, the VOX is actually a decent amp that can maintain it's value.If you want lots of effects, you might try the Peavey Vyper, at 15 watts. It is a great way to learn about all the effects, kind of sucks, better than fender, not as good as the VOX. The guitar - that's a tough one. I am more partial to the Dean cheap guitars, like the Vendetta XM. However, you can go to Guitar center and play them and see what you like. If you like the sound of the telecaster, then get it. The Telecaster has a particular sound so it is sort of limited. But $179 seems way too much for a squire. They often go on sale, and they are not particularly good guitars. One could get any cheap guitar in that price range, like and Ibanez, which are more of a favorite of the metal heads. One thing to think about is if you are going to learn lead guitar, then the telecasters and strats have single coils, which means they will be very noisy. As to the tuner, some amps have built in tuners. You don't need a capo or string cleaner, but you will need a strap. Check out the bin at the front of the store for cheap straps.
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