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Testor Plastic Cement
Price : $2.08 $0.98
Features
: - Adhesives/Glues/Cements
- For use with your scale model railroad
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Editorial Review :
This Glue joins Polystyrene to Polystyrene and ABS plastics.
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Nanoblock Space Shuttle
Price : $24.99 $16.53
Features
: - Micro-sized building blocks will enable you to execute even the finest details like never before
- Includes detailed color instructions
- Collect, build and display your works of art
- A 3D work of art that fits in the palm of your hand
- Create detailes with assorted sizes and colored pieces
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You don?t have to be an engineer to create with nanoblock! With these micro-sized building blocks, 3D buildings are constructed like never before! Hold this NASA space shuttle in the palm of your hand!
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Model Building Supplies Kit
Price : $13.00 $8.11
Features
: - Modeling Supplies
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This set comes with hobby drop cloth with modeling tips, 3 brushes, hobby knife glueing tips and 5 films of sandpaper.
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Tamiya Basic Tool Set - MK816
Price : $27.00 $16.61
Features
: - Tamiya Item#: 74016
- Angled Tweezers x 1, File (for plastic) x 1
- Side Cutter (for plastic) x 1
- Craft Knife x 1
- Phillips Screwdriver x 1; Flat Head Screwdriver
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Editorial Review :
This convenient basic modeling tool kit by Tamiya is great for all model builders, from beginners to advanced skill levels. The kit include: 1 Angled Tweezers. 1 File (for plastic). 1 Side Cutter (for plastic). 1 Craft Knife. 1 Phillips Screwdriver. 1 Flat Head Screwdriver. Convenient plastic case included.
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Elenco OWI Samurai Scorpion Aluminum Kit
Price : $12.99 $9.56
Features
: - Build an amusing aluminum Samurai Scorpion
- Easy to understand kid friendly step-by-step instructions
- Its claws, arms, legs, and tail are all moveable
- Body consists of eight legs, tail and curved aculeus (stinger)
- No soldering required
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Editorial Review :
Robot Kit. Ages: 10 Years & Up. Made by OWI. Almost lifelike, OWI's aluminum non-venomous invertebrate building kit features a Scorpion that you assemble from metal and bendable aluminum parts. The Samurai Scorpion is comprised of two major parts: head and body. The head consists of a pair of eyes, mouth, and claws used to capture prey. The body contains eight legs, tail and curved aculeus (stinger). Did you know that scorpions are nocturnal? They often feed at night by lying still and surprising their prey (dinner). On the other hand, they are dinner for tarantulas, bats, and birds (especially owls). Let's talk more specifics about Samurai Scorpion. The kit contains 30 hard and soft pre-punched aluminum parts, 7 screws, 7 nuts, 3 springs, and even assembly tools are included. Its claws, arms, legs, and tail are all moveable. No Batteries Required.
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Questions & Answers
Question : What Limits A Domestic Three Way Y-Plan Motorised Valve?
Dear Yahoo'ers!Technical question for anyone familiar with the mechanics of Honeywell/Sunvic/Other motorised valves as used on a Y-Plan central heating system. Good luck with this one.I'm an electrician by trade and noticed today after being called round to replace my Mothers 5 amp fuse in the fused spur that runs the 10~ year old Baxi boiler gas-fired central heating system/programmer/pump that her 3-way motorised valve was hot to touch under the plastic cover/housing. I was suspicious of a fault as it couldn't have been warmed by conduction from the hot water as there wasn't any, hence my call out!On closer inspection of the motorised valve I noticed that bar the physical contrasts of the mechanics of the valve there didn't appear to be any method of telling the motor that runs the valve mechanics when to stop once it was at it's full extent of travel (I.E. hot water on only or radiators only, as in the mechanics had turned the valve all one way or the other) therefore the motor running the valve was constantly trying to turn the mechanics but couldn't as the physical construction of the mechanics hit stops, stopping the throw of the valve to go any further the 90 degrees necessary to control this type of system.Inside the body of the motorised valve are two micro switches. Both two way. From what I can make out, one switch controls the pump feed. This stops the pump running while the valve is moving and one micro switch tells the motorised valves' motor when the mechanics are in the middle of the two extremities of it's throw (I.E. hot water and heating both on and the valve position in the middle) These micro switches are controlled via a cam which is attached to the valve seat so simply tap the relative micro switches as they pass.In short this means that while the motorised valve is not in the middle of it's throw but at one end or the other as it is most of the time while running the heating only it's motor is constantly trying to turn further and effectively jammed. What is supposed to cut the motor out? Surely it cannot be designed like this and no-one else has ever noticed?I'm not sure of the model number but to all intent and purposes it looks something like this http://www.buyaparcel.com/imageview.php?image=sdmv2304.jpg&width=250&height=350&type=thumbnail. It's not a metal cased Honeywell type.Please only answer this question if you are familiar with the mechanics of these valves. I know it is wired correctly. It does respond to the programmer as it should it's just the motor itself does not stop when the valve does. This is causing it to get very warm and wasting endless amounts of electricity as well as being a fire hazard.Thanks in advance!
Answer:
There are two mechanisms to limit the valve.One is, that the motor stalls when ithe valve hits the stops at the end of its travel.The other is that it gets fed dc current when it reaches the mid position, and if you understand how a syncronus motor works, you will realise, that it's much the same as beind in the stalled position,there are two micro switches in the valve, ofsett slightly. around the mid positionEither way, the motor still draws power ( about 5watts). explaining why they burn out quite regularly, although, I have to say, that they have been designed to cope with that condition.By the way, the fuse is supposed to be only three amps. so if it blew a 5 amp fuse, I would suspect either the pump windings , or water getting onto the wiring somewhere.The power requirements of your system are minimal, about 80 -100 watts for the pump, 5 for the motorised valve, 1 for the programmer, 3-5 for the gas valve and 80 - 120 for the fan if there is one in the boiler.Ie a total maximum of about 230 wats, less than 1 amp of current.
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Question : Whats a good sub/amp system for a '09 ford focus?
I'm a 15 yr old that can make cash when needed but i don't want to spend a lot. I'm looking to purchase a sub/amp for my car, but i'm new to car audio. Questions:Does the wattage on subwoofer be the same as a wattage on an amp?What are good subs that won't break the bank or kill the battery?Why do people worry about breaking their car windows? =)How much is it to get best buy to install it?And, would this combo work?-Visonik V123BP 12" 1200 Watt Computer Designed Bandpass Enclosure Bass System# MDF Construction# Heavy Duty Avation Carpet# Designed and Tuned Chrome Airo Ports# Visonik Stitched Logo# Large Anti-Shock Plexiglass Window# Quick Lock & Unlock Speaker terminals# Woofer: Dual High Performance Sub-Woofers# Polypropylene Injection Cone# Large Bumped Foam Surround# Single 1.75" Voice Coil with Copper Wound Voice Coil Wire# Ventilated Kapton Former# Chemically Treated Progressive Nomex Spider# Optimally Charged High Grade Ferrite Magnet# Stamped Steel Basket# Spring Loaded Terminalshttp://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=10913482-Autotek 1-Channel 1000-Watt Amplifier, SM1-1000.1This monophonic Street Machine model delivers 1000 watts into 1 ohm or 500 watts into 2 ohms. * 250 watts into 4 ohms * Class D amplifier design * Rugged Pro-Fi MOSFET audio output stage * Fully adjustable crossover * 24dB low-pass crossover with variable 9dB bass equalization * 24 dB subsonic filter * Amplifier daisy-chaining capability * 4-gauge power connectors * Remote bass control Thanks for answering my questionsOne more question: If that sub/amp system work, would it fit in my car?Btw tom i bought myself =)
Answer:
Yes you need to match the RMS wattage of your subwoofers and amps. not the max ratings. pretty much all the subs you see in best buy are decent subs. the battery draining is only a problem if: your system is installed incorrectly, you run it for prolonged periods of time without the engine running, you hook up a large amp (over 1200 watts RMS) that has a current draw too large for your electrical system to handle.I don't know why people worry about breaking their windows. they are just ignorant to the fact that bass doesn't break windows. high pitches do. I've seen some serious flexing in windows, but it takes way more power then you're looking into getting to do thatinstallation prices are on the best buy website. just look for it.and that setup should work.will it fit? well here are the dimensions Product in Inches (L x W x H): 29.5 x 18.5 x 17.0 break out some measuring tape and see how much space you have. but I think it should fit.
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Question : How much wattage in an amp do I need for these speakers?
OKAY.... Ya'll I need some serious help please ASAP! So I'm throwing a house party and I just bought these speakers. The only thing is i forgot i need an amplifier.... sooo.... I have no Idea what brands are good and how much wattage I need to run the speakers.New Pair of MA Audio MA50DJZ 400 Watt 2-Way Professional PA DJ SpeakersFeatures:Model: MA50DJZPassive 2-Way Design5.25" Polypropylene Coated Laminate Woofer Cone1" Piezoelectric Wide Dispersion Horn TweeterBass Reflex cabinet DesignWedge Shape Cabinet (Multiple Positioning Angles)Heavy Duty MDF Cabinet ConstructionBlack Aviation Grade CarpetDigitally Tuned Dual Slot PortsInternal Crossover5-Way Speaker Binding PostsDual 1/4" Jack InputsHeavy Duty Recessed handlesStand Mount Capable with Built-In Pole SocketSpecifications:400 Watts RMS/800 Watts Peak Power Per Pair200 Watts RMS/400 Watts Peak Power EachImpedance: 8 OhmFrequency Response: 50Hz-20kHzSensitivity: 87dBDimensions (FW x H x D x BW): 9.4" x 12.6 x 7.9" x 6"^^ those are the speakers. Please let me know what I need to run these. Maybe send some links? Thanks so much!!!
Answer:
The wattage specifications look suspiciously high for a 5-inch driver.Divide by 4 here.Use an amplifier rated at no more than 50W RMS per channel.Listen for raspy sounds; if you hear any, reduce the volume setting until the raspiness goes away.Add-on note:Those speakers are barely sufficient for a party of one.For a house party, they will be a major disappointment.Sound-reinforcement cabinets with 15" LF drivers would be a bit more like it.
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Question : what kind of amp do i need to get the best out of my box?
it's JL Three 12" 1800W 2.7 ohm Subwoofers EnclosureTechnical Specification* Sensitivity: 87 dB* RMS Power Range : 150 - 900 Watts* Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts* Impedance: 2.7 Ohm* Low Frequency response: 22 Hz* High Frequency Response: 200 Hz* Diameter: 12 InchFeatures* Tight, powerful bass with enhanced power handling capabilities* ProWedge enclosure features solid V-groove MDF construction* Angled back design to help save space in the cargo area* Interlocking Cone & Dust Cap* Vented Reinforcement Collar* steel-mesh grille* Dynamic Motor Analysis* Floating Cone Attachment Method* Spider/Lead Wire Assembly* Elevated Frame Cooling* Surround Stress Relief* 5-way binding posts* Dark gray carpet, steel mesh grilles* Enclosure Type: Sealed, rear-firing, dual chamber* Net Weight: 66.5 lbs* Enclosure height: 14.25"* Enclosure width: 37.75"* Enclosure Depth: 18.0"* Top Surface Depth 13.0"send me amp models that would get the best out of this system i was thinking on going with JL or Alpinealso give me some comments on this system would it play good? my friend is giving it to me for 400 i just need an ampCategoryCars & Transportation > Car Audio
Answer:
it's JL Three 12" 1800W 2.7 ohm Subwoofers EnclosureTechnical Specification* Sensitivity: 87 dB* RMS Power Range : 150 - 900 Watts* Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts* Impedance: 2.7 Ohm* Low Frequency response: 22 Hz* High Frequency Response: 200 Hz* Diameter: 12 InchFeatures* Tight, powerful bass with enhanced power handling capabilities* ProWedge enclosure features solid V-groove MDF construction* Angled back design to help save space in the cargo area* Interlocking Cone & Dust Cap* Vented Reinforcement Collar* steel-mesh grille* Dynamic Motor Analysis* Floating Cone Attachment Method* Spider/Lead Wire Assembly* Elevated Frame Cooling* Surround Stress Relief* 5-way binding posts* Dark gray carpet, steel mesh grilles* Enclosure Type: Sealed, rear-firing, dual chamber* Net Weight: 66.5 lbs* Enclosure height: 14.25"* Enclosure width: 37.75"* Enclosure Depth: 18.0"* Top Surface Depth 13.0"send me amp models that would get the best out of this system i was thinking on going with JL or Alpinealso give me some comments on this system would it play good? my friend is giving it to me for 400 i just need an ampCategoryCars & Transportation > Car Audio
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Question : what kind of amp do i need to get the best out of my box?
it's JL Three 12" 1800W 2.7 ohm Subwoofers Enclosure Technical Specification* Sensitivity: 87 dB* RMS Power Range : 150 - 900 Watts* Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts* Impedance: 2.7 Ohm* Low Frequency response: 22 Hz* High Frequency Response: 200 Hz* Diameter: 12 InchFeatures* Tight, powerful bass with enhanced power handling capabilities* ProWedge enclosure features solid V-groove MDF construction* Angled back design to help save space in the cargo area* Interlocking Cone & Dust Cap* Vented Reinforcement Collar* steel-mesh grille* Dynamic Motor Analysis* Floating Cone Attachment Method* Spider/Lead Wire Assembly* Elevated Frame Cooling* Surround Stress Relief* 5-way binding posts* Dark gray carpet, steel mesh grilles* Enclosure Type: Sealed, rear-firing, dual chamber* Net Weight: 66.5 lbs* Enclosure height: 14.25"* Enclosure width: 37.75"* Enclosure Depth: 18.0"* Top Surface Depth 13.0"send me amp models that would get the best out of this system i was thinking on going with JL or Alpine also give me some comments on this system would it play good? my friend is giving it to me for 400 i just need an amp
Answer:
it's JL Three 12" 1800W 2.7 ohm Subwoofers Enclosure Technical Specification* Sensitivity: 87 dB* RMS Power Range : 150 - 900 Watts* Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts* Impedance: 2.7 Ohm* Low Frequency response: 22 Hz* High Frequency Response: 200 Hz* Diameter: 12 InchFeatures* Tight, powerful bass with enhanced power handling capabilities* ProWedge enclosure features solid V-groove MDF construction* Angled back design to help save space in the cargo area* Interlocking Cone & Dust Cap* Vented Reinforcement Collar* steel-mesh grille* Dynamic Motor Analysis* Floating Cone Attachment Method* Spider/Lead Wire Assembly* Elevated Frame Cooling* Surround Stress Relief* 5-way binding posts* Dark gray carpet, steel mesh grilles* Enclosure Type: Sealed, rear-firing, dual chamber* Net Weight: 66.5 lbs* Enclosure height: 14.25"* Enclosure width: 37.75"* Enclosure Depth: 18.0"* Top Surface Depth 13.0"send me amp models that would get the best out of this system i was thinking on going with JL or Alpine also give me some comments on this system would it play good? my friend is giving it to me for 400 i just need an amp
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Question : Dual-band cell signal amplification... Can you help?
My company has moved into a new building (32256 ZIP). Unfortunately we've found that the solid construction has reduced cell phone signals in the building to zero. Once we step outside, cell service immediately returns... for both 850 MHz & 1900 MHz bands.I'm looking to install a signal amplifying system with inside dome antennas to restore service from all carriers (AT&T, Sprint, T-Mobile, NexTel, Verizon, etc.) to my clients in the building.Can you recommend a set-up for me (including part brands & models?)I'm really curious if I should use separate roof-top antennas and separate amps for the two bands, or if I should use a dual-band antenna with a dual band amp. Omni-directional or directional?This is a first for me. I've done a lot of research, but any bit of info you can provide sure will be appreciated.
Answer:
I used to work for a 2-way radio outfit and we installed cell repeaters in several buildings due to metal roofs or other dense construction. They worked great and the customers were very happy. There was no problem with the amplifiers that came with these systems. You shouldn't need separate antennas or amps. We just put a standard antenna above the false ceiling. No need for anything fancy like a dome for the antenna. The link below leads to one source. There are others. You can search the web yourself or just check with some local 2-way radio shops.
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Question : What amp should i use for 3 pioneer champion series 12'?
i have 3 pioneer champion series 12' and my question what amp should i use?here's more info...GeneralBrand PioneerSeries Champion SeriesModel TS-W307D2Type SubwoofersComponentSubwoofer Size 12"Cone Material Composite IMPP Cone using Interlaced Aramid FiberSurround Material Wide Roll, Three-Layer Fiber Woven RadialVoice Coil SingleVoice Coil Construction 4-Layer, Long Voice Coil, Copper Wire, Phenol Resin Coated Glass Cloth BobbinDamper (Spider) Aramid FiberMagnet Construction Double Mass High-Power (83oz)Gasket MoldedSpecificationPeak Power 1200WRMS Power 400WFrequency Response 18 Hz - 500 HzSensitivity 89 dBImpedance 1/4 OhmMounting Depth 6.02"Cut-Out Dimensions 12.87" x 6.77"FeatureFeature Recommended Enclosure Use: 0.85 ~ 1.75 Cubic FeetIntegrated Single-Sided Silver Compression TerminalsStandard Top PlateProjected Pole Yoke with Vented Pole
Answer:
I would use a amplifer that is 1200 RMS watts or alittle more this would give you about 400 watts rms to each sub, you could use Kicker, Hifonics any good brand just as long as it has the right power.
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Question : I HAVE 2 mtx 12" SUBWOOFERS....?
Model: 441244MTX Audio's Terminator Series 12" Dual 4 Ohm Subs800 Watts Power Handling Per Pair400 Watts RMS Power Handling Per Pair400 Watts Power Handling Each200 Watts RMS Power Handling EachPolypropylene Cone WooferSingle Cone Construction1.5" Voice Coils for Extreme Power Handling and ExcursionSensitivity (1W/1M): 87.8dBFrequency Response: 39Hz-150HzMagnet Weight: 28 Oz.Cutout Diameter: 11 InchesMounting Depth: 5.5 InchesImpedance: Dual 4 OhmsFREE Speaker Parameters, Wiring Diagrams, and Instructions for Building Sealed and Vented Enclosures are IncludedSuggested Retail Price: $399.99Full 1 Year WarrantyIM LOOKING AT A 1000 WATT AMP TO PUSH THEM, THE AMP IS 2 CHANNELL, WOULD THE 1000 WATT AMP BE TOO BIG FOR 2 OF THESE SUBS OR SHOULD I JUST STICK WITH MY 200 WATT AMP THAT PSH THEM GREAT??????I dont know much about car audio, im 16 and just got my 1st system. No smart*** commentsI MEANt the 1000 watt amp is 4 channell, idk where 2 came from.
Answer:
I also have 2 mtx's and an mtx amp pushing them. The 1000 watt amp want blow them and you can always turn the power down. What I do is turn my stereo to the loudest I would listen to it and then adjust the gain on the amp until it is what I would like to hear. You will be fine if my 1000 watt mtx amp want blow it the other 1000 watt won't, Nice system
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Question : question about these subs/amp/etc.?
are these good??? will they be good quality and produce nice bass??General:Model: Visonik PowerPlay 212PK1200 Watt Car Audio Bass System Stimulus PackageSubwoofer Features: Dual 12" Visonik Subwoofers (4 Ohm - SVC)Pre-Loaded/Pre-Wired in a Sealed Enclosure1200 Watts Peak Power Handling (Pair)600 Watts Peak Power Handling (Each)Impact Resistant Polypropylene ConeButyl Rubber SurroundCotton Cloth Treated Nomex SpiderStamped Steel BasketDouble Charged Oversized Strontium Ferrite Magnet1.5" High Temperature ASV Voice Coil (SVC)Enclosure Features:Visonik PowerPlay Dual 12" Subwoofer - Sealed EnclosureHeavy Duty MDF with Miter Joint Box ConstructionAeronautical Grade CarpetEmbroidered Visonik PowerPlay LogoGold Plated 5-Way Binding Post TerminalsDimensions (D1 x D2 x W x H): 7.75" x 9" x 26.5" x 13.5"Amplifier Features:Model: VX218Visonik 2/1 Channel Class A/B Car AmplifierOutput Power Rating:150 Watts x 2 Channels @ 4 Ohm300 Watts x 2 Channels @ 2 Ohm400 Watts x 1 Channel @ 4 Ohm (Bridged)2/1 Channel OperationMOSFET Power SupplyPower and Protection LED IndicatorsThermal/Short/Overload Protection CircuitryHeavy Duty Aluminum Alloy HeatsinkAdvanced Heat Dispersion TechnologySpeaker-Level InputsVariable Active CrossoversAdjustable Gain Input SensitivityTuned Bass EQ Remote (0-12 dB Bass Boost)Gold-Plated RCA Level InputsGold-Plated Screw TerminalsInput Sensitivity: 0.3-7VVariable High-Pass Filter (50-500 Hz)Variable Low-Pass Filter (50-250 Hz)Frequency Response: 20-25,000 HzDimensions (L x W x H): 8.66" x 6.85" x 1.57"Amplifier Installation Kit Features:Copper-Plated Aluminum Power Cables (10GA)Ground Cable (10GA)Remote Wire (18GA)RCA CablesButt Connectors (12GA / 14GA)O-Ring Connectors (10GA / 14GA)Spade Connectors (14GA)Fuse (25A)Tie-WrapsHigh-Level Input Harnessalso, they are selling for $130 is that good?
Answer:
those are nothing but pure flea market junk.stay away.just to give you a comparison,those 12 inch subs have a 1.5 inch voice coil.most 12 inch subs have at least a 2.5 inch coil.
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Question : whats wromg with my guitar (extended)?
I asked this Q yesturday but i didnt post what guitar i had so i will this time....my 1 month old electric guitar makes a buzzing noise, it seems to be on the 4-6 string, on practically all the frets of the frets. the 4th and 5th are both very bad and the 6th is bad but not as bad. i have plucked in and noticed that the buzzing comes from the bridge area. The noise is not feedback from the amp, it buzzes weither its pluged into an amp or not, the sound seems to be 'physical'.This is the guitar's spec: Guitar - Features/Specifications: * Model: Electric Guitar * Construction: Bolt-on * Body: Basswood * Neck: Maple * Fingerboard: Rosewood with dot position inlays * Machine heads: Chrome die-cast * Tremolo: Tune-O-Matic * Hardware: Chrome * Pick Ups: 2x Open humbucking pickups * Controls: 2 x Volume, 2 x Tone, 3-Way Pickup Selector Switch * Scale: Full Size 627mm / 22 Frets * Finish: Gloss BlackLink: http://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Electric-GB-II-Guitar-and-Complete-Pack-Black/8HYIt is my first electric guitar so i wanted quite a cheap one, but even cheap ones shouldn't buzz like that...when i say it comes from the bridge, the tune o matic tremolo thing i think its called, the metal piece between the pick ups and where the strings go into.
Answer:
You'll notice there is a little wire that holds the screws that adjust the tune-o-matic bridge (its not a tremelo). If it comes loose, it will buzz around. I tend to ignore it, since the buzz it is not amplified. Try putting pressure on it with a flat head screw driver and play the guitar and see if the rattle stops. If it does, then you know the problem and can google around to fix it.Secondly, raise your action a bit by turning the thumb screws on the bridge counterclockwise. This lessens buzzing, but there will probably always be a little bit of buzz on low strung electrics. The buzz isn't amplified, so most people live with it, rather than raising the height of the strings uncomfortably.Thirdly, to probably fix what is wrong, do this :Then, check the relief on your neck (google "check guitar relief for more info), by holding down the sixth string at the first and 22 fret with both hands. Basically, the string, when held down at two points, forms a straight edge, and will show you the curvature of the neck. If you have buzzes especially from the 4-6th fret, it probably means your neck is back bowed. Ideally, the neck bows forward slightly - this is called 'relief', and you will see that the string rises slightly above the middle of the neck, around the 5th fret. You should be able to slide an average guitar pick into the space between the string and the frets when the string is held to the first and 22 fret.You get more relief (front bow) by loosening the truss rod slightly. You get less relief by tightening your guitar's truss rod (less front bow, or even a back bow, which is not desireable).Turn the truss rod in 1/4 or 1/2 turns, and check again. Adjusting a truss rod (its behind a plastic plate, on the front side of your guitar's headstock) is not rocket science, it's simple mechanics. Just be careful not to over tighten it.
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